DIY West Elm Pipe Table (C-Table)


A week or so ago, I told you about a little DIY I was planning…the West Elm Pipe Table. Well, it’s finally done and I am thrilled with the results. 


It’s really a lot easier than it looks. And, here’s how you can build one yourself!

Head to Lowe’s, Home Depot, or any spot that sells galvanized piping. You’ll need to purchase the following parts:

  • 2 24” pipes for the height (this will also depend on the height of your sofa arm)
  • 2 8” pipes for the width
  • 2 18” pipes for the bottom depth
  • 2 10” pipes for the top depth
  • 8 90* pipe connectors
  • Goo Gone
  • Stainless Steel scrubber
  • Paper Towels
  • 1 package of pipe straps
  • 1 12”x24”x1” piece of wood. (I got Red Oak and had them cut mine down to 12”x15”x1”)
  • 200 grit sandpaper
  • Stain of your choice (I used Minwax Poly Shades in Tudor Stain #360)
  • Staining Pads
  • Polyurethane (if stain doesn’t include it)

For whatever reason, these pipes are covered in some sticky gunk even if they are packaged in plastic bags. If they aren’t packaged in plastic, they have UPC stickers on them. So, the first step of this project is cleaning these puppies up. I used Goo Gone and it worked like a charm.

Lay the pipes and connectors out on a tray of some sort. I used cookie sheets. LOL. Hey! Whatever works! Spray the Goo Gone all over the pipes and let it sit for 5 minutes. Use a stainless steel pad to scrub it all down and get most of the sticker off. Polish it off with a few paper towels. 

After they’re all shiny and sticker free lay them all out in a big space and get ready to assemble.

Now you’ll attached the pipes together using the connectors in the shape of a C-Table. There’s really no good way to explain this, so here’s a diagram.

Tada! A stand! Yah.

Now you’ll prep the table top. Sand your wood with 200 grit sandpaper in the direction of the grain until the wood is smooth and the corners aren’t deadly. Wipe the wood down with a damp cloth and let dry completely. Apply the stain with a staining pad in the direction of the wood grain. Apply the polyurethane now if your stain doesn’t include it. To prevent bubbling, grab a paint brush and gently run along the grain of the wood at a 45 degree angle. Allow to dry for six hours or according to the package directions. 

Now, lay your new table top on your base and adjust the pipes ever so slightly to make sure the table is level. Secure the wood to the pipes by screwing the pipe clamps around the pipe and into the wood from underneath the table top. I centered one around the shorter pipe and used two (one closer to the front and one closer to the back) for the longer pieces. 

And, there you have it! You’re custom DIY Pipe Table!

If you make one, please be sure to post a photo reply or mention me on Instagram (@LindseyKnows). I’d love to see your handy work!


12 thoughts on “DIY West Elm Pipe Table (C-Table)

  1. Tim

    No response on threading/tightening the last piece. Need a female threading adapter? How is this clear complication not mentioned by LINDSEYKNOWS?

    • The last piece is really just half screwed into each end. I screwed it all the way in to the penultimate piece, then unscrewed that a little as it screwed into the last piece a little. It’s not perfect, but it’s never fallen apart after all these years. I move it around a lot too! Hope that helps!

  2. Trisha Bowman

    I have had one assembled for about a month except for that last connection… Ryan, what type of coupler do I need for this?

  3. Erica

    Lindsey, we are building the table, and trying to connect the last piece of pipe and elbow. But how on earth do we get both sides of the last piece of pipe to be tight since it threads in opposite directions of each elbow on each end? Does this make sense? If we tighten one side, it loosens the other. What did you do??

      • Ryan

        My wife and I ran into the same problem. What you can do is get a coupler for this. You can screw the coupler independent of either pipe and make your life a heck of a lot easier. Cheers!

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